The Muslim/beach culture mix is a cool one. Next to coastal Albania, I’m pretty sure this is the only place in Europe where a mosque provides the backdrop to bright beach umbrellas, speedo sunbathing and jet-ski rentals.
Ulcinj is set up against a canyon, reminiscent of some of our favorite beach spots in southern CA. With its cobblestone streets and loud motorbikes, Ulcinj felt like a Balkan lovechild between an Italian and Southern CA beach town.
Although it seems like the majority of the city’s action can be found in cafes along the beach or good shopping towards the center of town, the old town (within the fortifications) is the perfect place to get a breathtaking panorama of the Adriatic while enjoying a freshly caught meal. It shares the same Mediterranean charm as Kotor and Budva, with cobblestone walkways and white stone homes with crawling vines and colorful shutters.
If you visit Ulcinj, don’t rob yourself of the sublime views you can get from one of dozens of restaurants in the walled town. We had a fantastic, long lunch at Restaurant Antigona where the owner’s son welcomed us with shots of homemade rakija. The Montenegrin specialties of freshly caught sea bass, dourada, prawns and calamari were grilled on an open flame and served with potatoes, garlic sauce and bread. They even cut and served the fish for us, which was prepared whole.