Pržno, Montenegro

We sojourned for six restful weeks in Pržno, a small beach community on the Budva Riviera in Montenegro. When initially searching online for a place to hang our hats for a month and a half, we wanted a nice beach that was accessible on foot to walking paths, restaurants, small markets and other beaches. We chose to avoid Budva, Montenegro’s biggest and most visited coastal town, in search of something low key and serene. . .and we found just that in Pržno.

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The unique charm of Pržno is worthy of description –

Half of the modest sized beach is framed by white stone homes with crawling bougainvillea and blue shutters, inspiring all of the romance and beauty of an untouched Mediterranean village. The other half of the beach is dominated by a drab and tasteless Resort & Casino, architecture from a bygone Communist era.

Pržno is a 10 minute stroll from a string of surreal, gorgeous coves, as well as Montenegro’s most iconic landmark islet, Sveti Stefan. And yet, despite its proximity to these place as well as its own handful of upscale restaurants and modern accommodations, Pržno still retains an old world fishing village atmosphere.

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In six weeks we watched Pržno go through a transformation that we’ve seen up and down the coast of Montenegro in the spring (for before/after pics, see this blog). Beach chairs and changing stations have replaced litter and decaying dinghies, restaurants and cafes have opened their doors and written their specials on chalk boards. But in Pržno many things have remained the same – local men still gather for espressos in the morning before heading out to fish and the afternoon a few of the older ones sit on the stone wall against the beach mending their nets and skinning and gutting the day’s catch.

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We’ll always look back incredibly fondly at the countless hours spent enjoying the view from our balcony and we’ll never forget the sounds of Pržno in the spring – water lapping up against the hulls of fishing boats, the squeal of kids playing in the waves, the braying of two donkeys that graze on the hill near the beach, the sound of jackhammers and new construction projects, the purr of outboard motors and the whistling of espresso machines.

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View from our balcony in April

 

TIPS-FOR-TRAVELERS

  • We stayed in the Budva Springs apartments in Pržno and would HIGHLY recommend them to anyone. The owners, Simo & Vesna are friendly, kind and accommodating. The apartments are well designed, well equipped, clean and comfortable. These apartments are less than a minute from the beach, a small market and several great restaurants, and a ten minute walk to Sveti Stefan. Budva proper is a pleasant 5 mile walk or a 10 euro cab ride away. You can find listings for these apartments on their website and through airbnb here.

9 thoughts on “Pržno, Montenegro

  1. Great blog guys. Me and my fiance are staying at the villa sara guest house which i believe is the opposite side of the beach to where you stayed.
    I did first of all want to stay in sveti stefan however after some pondering i thought maybe sveti stefan would be too touristy and too costly as i heard sun loungers are about 50 euros per person.
    after reading your blog i’m really excited to be going to montenegro so i thank you for writing this blog if you could give us any ideas of nice restaurants that are not too touristy and any ideas of visiting sveti stefan and how to avoid paying through the roof for a meal or sun loungers that would be very much appreciated many thanks andy and amy

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    • Hi Andy,

      That’s so great to hear! I think you picked a great spot!

      Yes, Sveti Stefan is expensive and when we left the beach chairs there and at Milocer Beach (which is inbetween Przno and Sveti Stefan) were between 50 and 75 Euros. However, Przno beach is a wonderful spot to spend a week at and the other beaches can really be enjoyed through beautiful walking paths through the trees to Sveti Stefan. Other beaches to the northwest of Przno are great too and the walk is pretty easy. There’s a path that goes down from the main road to a beach not accessible by cars where there are some less expensive beach chairs (at least on June 1) and it’s more isolated. The walk continues through a tunnel into Rafailovici and then past the Duckley onto Budva. The closer you get to Budva the more crowded it gets, but we really loved that first isolated beach. I put a link to the walk at the end.

      As far as restaurants go we really liked Blanche in Przno, a bit pricey but really great food. The restaurants along the water are all touristy but the seafood is good at Konoba More and the views are pretty great for grabbing beers and an appetizer. Have you ever had bureks? Make sure to try a meat and cheese one at the bakeries or I believe Market Tina and Market Boka in Przno have them delivered every morning.

      Not sure how long you’re there but a quick trip up to Kotor (try and choose a non-cruise ship day if possible) or a day trip down to Ulcinj are very cool. However, we could have spent weeks in a row around Przno and the surrounding beaches and been very content.

      Have fun and feel free to email us with any questions.

      https://www.google.fr/maps/dir/42.2701569,18.8917879/42.278913,18.8372344/@42.2795986,18.8644549,15z/data=!4m9!4m8!1m5!3m4!1m2!1d18.8585365!2d42.2818215!3s0x134dd47cdcbf0bb9:0x1888747edbf75b13!1m0!3e2

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    • Andy, one last thought – if you have a car (they can be rented in Budva for 35 euros/day) there are endless amounts of isolated beaches to be explored just an hour down the coast line. We regret not dropping in at every hole in the wall cove but if you have the Brandt Guide to Montenegro, she does a decent job of listing them out there – though there are many more marked by a simple sign saying PlaZa (meaning beach) or sometimes just a big P pointing to a small road.

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  2. Pingback: Traveling While Reading: The Balkans | Adam and Molly Go

  3. Staying in Przno in a guesthouse room only for 2 weeks from 27th July. Worried it is going to be very expensive given that we are only room only, any tips for eating out cheaply, where to go etc. Also like to chill on the beach, any cheap beaches within walking distance of Przno? Any other advice welcome. Thanks!

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  4. Hi, not sure if my previous message was posted here or not. Wondered if you could recommend any cheap restaurants/cafes in Przno, we arrive there on 27th for 2 weeks staying room only in a guesthouse and understand it can be expensive. Same with beaches, any cheap ones within walking distance? Any advice appreciated as its our first visit to Montenegro.

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    • Hi Kevin!

      You’ll find a few different restaurant options in Przno that range in price and all include a picturesque view of the cove. Also there are two tiny markets in Przno – Boka 2 is right next to the restaurant Blanche, and Market Tina is just off the highway as you turn into Przno. There you can stock up on produce & snacks to offset some restaurant costs. Also, they have inexpensive cold beer and bottles of wine you can enjoy on the beach or on the walking path to Sveti Stefan.

      For dirt cheap meals or snacks in Montenegro, keep an eye out for a Pekara (bakery) or places that sell burek (baked filo treat filled with minced meat or cheese – YUM). (Market Boka 2 in Przno has a few bureks for sale in the morning. . .get em while they’re hot!)

      In addition to the obvious choice (the beautiful beach in front of Sveti Stefan – just south of Przno) we would recommend exploring the beaches north from Przno that lead all the way to Budva (about 4.5 mile walk). Our favorite one is JUST north of Przno, Kamenova Beach. If you’ll humor me, I’ll provide you with directions in a Montenegrin fashion: head north on foot from Przno, walking along the highway until you reach the first restaurant and parking lot on your left. In the parking lot, look for a homemade sign that says plaza (beach) that’s pointing down some stairs. It will appear that you’re walking through someone’s front yard, but it’s actually the trail down to the beach. :)

      From Kamenova Beach, you can continue your beach walk north. It will take you through a tunnel, along more beaches and small beach communities in the Budva Riviera, through the construction site which is the Duckley Hotel and eventually to Old Town Budva. There are dozens of beaches and hundreds of restaurants along the way, including cheap hamburger/pizza stands.

      When Adam and I visited in the spring, most of the beaches were not yet set up and charging for beach space (and Kamenova Beach was the furthest from looking ready for tourist season), so we can’t recommend cheap or free beaches because we’re not sure. We witnessed the early stages of a massive transformation/makeover of the beaches in preparation for high season, so we’d LOVE to hear your take and see some of your pics when you get home.

      Lastly, not sure if you’re going to have a car. If so, Montenegro is your oyster. If not, cabs are relatively inexpensive (Budva to Przno is about 10 euros). There are also buses you can take you where you need to go. Either way, the Bay of Kotor is a must see! If you can, also get to the charming town of Perast on the bay as well.

      Have a GREAT holiday, we hope you love Przno and Montenegro as much as we do. You’ll find Balkan hospitality among the very best.

      Molly

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      • Hi Molly,
        Thanks for your very informative reply, it was very useful and gives us a bit of an idea of what to expect. I couldn’t find much on the internet about Przno so I was really pleased when I came across your blog of your time there.We are really looking forward to Montenegro and staying in Przno and hope to make the most it although I’ll not be driving!
        Enjoy your travels and thanks again for your reply, really appreciate it.

        Best Wishes
        Kevin & Angie

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      • Kevin,

        Thanks so much for reading! I wouldn’t worry about the not-driving part. Walking up to Budva and back, seeing all the beaches along the way, is a great way to spend a day. Also, there are many buses that run along the coast road, going up and down the coast of Montenegro. You can catch them by flagging them down at a bus stop (look for their destinations listed on white cards on the windshield) You’ll pay by distance but you can go all the way down to Ulcinj (on the Albanian border) for 5 – 10 Euros. Just remember, if its a smaller stop, to remind the driver when you need to get off :-) If you’re not into group tours this is a great way to get to Kotor and back too. Have fun!

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